# Blower wheel stuck on shaft



## hvaclover

What procedures do you guys use to get a stuck blower wheel off a shaft?


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## The Dangling Wrangler

Probably the same things you do. 

Sand the shaft, oil 'er down, use a blower wheel puller. 
Worst case, buy a new one. I've tried using the torch. It ain't a pretty sight.


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## hvaclover

Yeah, I got my way but am just curious how other guys would tackle the job.


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## The Dangling Wrangler

When I get one that's real bad, I make the helper do it. He's responsible for everything then. :shifty:


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## jvegas

The Dangling Wrangler said:


> When I get one that's real bad, I make the helper do it. He's responsible for everything then. :shifty:


 I think that happened to me 20 something years ago did I work with you before :laughing:


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## The Dangling Wrangler

jvegas said:


> I think that happened to me 20 something years ago did I work with you before :laughing:


 
I'll never tell.:laughing:


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## Yuri

I just hope that when my apprentices really screw something up they forget I trained them when the authorities come knockin.


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## G 71

Big hammer and a brass bar.:thumbsup:


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## jvegas

G 71 said:


> Big hammer and a brass bar.:thumbsup:


 Is that to help the apprentice to forget :laughing:


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## DuMass

I will normally try the A/T Rust Buster first for removing blower wheels and pulleys. It's a clear, slippery, water like liquid that apparently has been used in auto repair shops since the 1970's, but I only found out about it maybe ten years ago.
I loosen the setscrews and give a few good squirts between the shaft and hub followed by a few light "love taps" to the hub collar with a with a drift punch and ball peen. This usually breaks them loose, but if not, I then completely remove the setscrews and flood the shaft and setscrew holes again and repeat.

If I still get attitude from the blower wheel,  I will use a small Uniweld Mapp hand torch that has fairly long reach tip to heat the shaft and hub for about 20-30-seconds, then shock the hub with spray from a bottle of glass cleaner that I always carry to clean off flux and grubby finger prints. This followed by another quick flood of the rust buster, which gives off a fluffy white cloud when heated, so don’t breath it… and a few more "love taps" will usually do the trick.

Only if all the above fails, is when the hub pullers come out. I have a couple of different sizes of those as well as wheel pullers, but these are rarely necessary.

BTW: "Rust Buster" is the clear liquid from Atwater Supply [A/T], not the brown stuff similarly named "Rust Breaker". 
Judging from the odor, I think the brown rust breaker is just repackaged CRC. I've used it and it works, but nowhere near as well as the clear rust buster does on blower wheels or pulleys.


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## mechanicalDvr

I start with taking the set screws out and applying rust buster, then the puller, and if that doesn't work I will cut the shaft, set the shaft into a pipe and beat out the cut off section with the hub resting on the pipe. I find that others I have worked with that use heat sometimes warp the wheel and it will never spin balanced again.


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## DuMass

mechanicalDvr said:


> I find that others I have worked with that use heat sometimes warp the wheel and it will never spin balanced again.


You can't control what others you work with do, but I really think it comes down to the monkey with a hand grenade scenario! :bangin:
The skill level of the individual performing the work will generally dictate the outcome. They really don’t need a screaming air/acetylene torch or even oxy/ace for the job. A simple Mapp hand torch with a lowered flame is normally the ideal tool for the task at hand. The idea is simply to utilize the time tested heat, shock, and lube method, which capitalizes on differing expansion/contraction characteristics of the hub and shaft.

I think this parallels the old technique that we have used to change out blower shafts and pillow blocks on roof-mounted blowers of a commercial kitchen hoods. That being, where the new replacement blower shaft is placed in a walk-in freezer overnight and the pillow blocks are warmed in an oven the morning before the install.


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## hvaclover

DuMass said:


> You can't control what others you work with do, but I really think it comes down to the monkey with a hand grenade scenario! :bangin:
> The skill level of the individual performing the work will generally dictate the outcome. They really don’t need a screaming air/acetylene torch or even oxy/ace for the job. A simple Mapp hand torch with a lowered flame is normally the ideal tool for the task at hand. The idea is simply to utilize the time tested heat, shock, and lube method, which capitalizes on differing expansion/contraction characteristics of the hub and shaft.
> 
> I think this parallels the old technique that we have used to change out blower shafts and pillow blocks on roof-mounted blowers of a commercial kitchen hoods. That being, where the new replacement blower shaft is placed in a walk-in freezer overnight and the pillow blocks are warmed in an oven the morning before the install.



i would never think of putting flame to a hub. I always have my hub puller 
ready when I have a blower motor to change.


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## The Dangling Wrangler

hvaclover said:


> i would never think of putting flame to a hub. I always have my hub puller
> ready when I have a blower motor to change.


 
Have to agree with that. Same with the brass drift. The center of the hubs ,don't withstand a lot of abuse. I know, I've tore a few up in my day.


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## hvaclover

The Dangling Wrangler said:


> Have to agree with that. Same with the brass drift. The center of the hubs ,don't withstand a lot of abuse. I know, I've tore a few up in my day.



Interesting call two summers back. I pulled the cond fan motor and the two bladed fan has a groove ground into the hub. I brought my hub puller out but the customer had never seen one and insisted I use one of his three finger pullers. I would not use it. So he grabbed the motor and attached his puller.
The fingers would not grab the groove and slipped off.
I took the motor back from him and had the blade off in three minutes and that was with really wrenching on the spindle.


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## The Dangling Wrangler

hvaclover said:


> Interesting call two summers back. I pulled the cond fan motor and the two bladed fan groove ground int the hub. I brought my hub puller out but the customer had never seen one and insisted I use one of his three finger pullers. I would not use it. So he grabbed the motor and attached his puller.
> The fingers would not grab the groove and slipped off.
> I took the motor back from him and had the blade off in three minutes and that was with really wrenching on the spindle.


 
Hey, it takes all kinds, I guess. He's lucky it didn't warp the hub.
The right tool, for the right job.


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## DuMass

hvaclover said:


> i would never think of putting flame to a hub. I always have my hub puller
> ready when I have a blower motor to change.


:laughing: :laughing: Well… I know from reading other posts that I’m not supposed to have direct correspondence or make eye contact with the HVAC soup nazi but… :laughing: :laughing:

I’ve seen some blower wheels and fan blades with aluminum hubs seized on a steel shaft that a 4-bolt puller will just rip right off of while leaving deep gouge marks in the surface of the hub.
Other than completely destroying or replacing the entire blower, motor/shaft assembly, the heat/shock method is sometimes your only viable alternative. 
I can normally use this method and have a blower wheel off and intact while somone else would still tightening the bolts on a puller. 
You asked what methods were used and this is one of them.
I may only have been doing ACR for 12 years, but I’ve been doing commercial equipment service much longer than that, so I guess what I’m saying is that I’m not coming fresh off the farm here. :001_tongue:


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## The Dangling Wrangler

DuMass said:


> :laughing: :laughing: Well… I know from reading other posts that I’m not supposed to have direct correspondence or make eye contact with the HVAC soup nazi but… :laughing: :laughing:
> 
> I’ve seen some blower wheels and fan blades with aluminum hubs seized on a steel shaft that a 4-bolt puller will just rip right off of while leaving deep gouge marks in the surface of the hub.
> Other than completely destroying or replacing the entire blower, motor/shaft assembly, the heat/shock method is sometimes your only viable alternative.
> I can normally use this method and have a blower wheel off and intact while somone else would still tightening the bolts on a puller.
> You asked what methods were used and this is one of them.
> I may only have been doing ACR for 12 years, but I’ve been doing commercial equipment service much longer than that, so I guess what I’m saying is that I’m not coming fresh off the farm here. :001_tongue:


 
Don't get so defensive. Nobody's said you're a greenhorn. Whatever floats your boat. Sometimes it's the only alternative, to replace motor, shaft, and/or wheel. What's your time worth?
Yes, I've wasted hours trying to save customers money. I don't do that anymore.


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## hvaclover

DuMass said:


> :laughing: :laughing: Well… I know from reading other posts that I’m not supposed to have direct correspondence or make eye contact with the HVAC soup nazi but… :laughing: :laughing:
> 
> I’ve seen some blower wheels and fan blades with aluminum hubs seized on a steel shaft that a 4-bolt puller will just rip right off of while leaving deep gouge marks in the surface of the hub.
> Other than completely destroying or replacing the entire blower, motor/shaft assembly, the heat/shock method is sometimes your only viable alternative.
> I can normally use this method and have a blower wheel off and intact while somone else would still tightening the bolts on a puller.
> You asked what methods were used and this is one of them.
> I may only have been doing ACR for 12 years, but I’ve been doing commercial equipment service much longer than that, so I guess what I’m saying is that I’m not coming fresh off the farm here. :001_tongue:


I think you are missing the point, I am talking about only residential 1/2" shaft pullers.


Oh, no body said you couldn't make eye contact. But don't you think you'd get eye strain staring at the screen? "Cause I don't think my avatar is gonna blink.


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## jvegas

The Dangling Wrangler said:


> Don't get so defensive. Nobody's said you're a greenhorn. Whatever floats your boat. Sometimes it's the only alternative, to replace motor, shaft, and/or wheel. What's your time worth?
> Yes, I've wasted hours trying to save customers money. I don't do that anymore.


 I agree time is money :yes:


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## DuMass

The Dangling Wrangler said:


> Don't get so defensive. Nobody's said you're a greenhorn. Whatever floats your boat. Sometimes it's the only alternative, to replace motor, shaft, and/or wheel. What's your time worth?
> Yes, I've wasted hours trying to save customers money. I don't do that anymore.


Whoa, whoa, whoa… This was just an attempt at levity on my part… no insult intended or received.

I guess I need to return to clown school and work on my comedic delivery. :shutup:



The Dangling Wrangler said:


> What's your time worth?


This was sort of my point as well.
Normally if the shaft extends more than approximatley 3-inches from the edge of the hub, these pullers won’t work anyway. You would have to cut the shaft as the first step to be able to use the puller, which is also time consuming.


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## The Dangling Wrangler

DuMass said:


> Whoa, whoa, whoa… This was just an attempt at levity on my part… no insult intended or received.
> 
> I guess I need to return to clown school and work on my comedic delivery. :shutup:
> 
> 
> 
> This was sort of my point as well.
> Normally if the shaft extends more than approximatley 3-inches from the edge of the hub, these pullers won’t work anyway. You would have to cut the shaft as the first step to be able to use the puller, which is also time consuming.


 
Yep, it's a thankless job we do. :yes:


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## hvaclover

Let's make sure everybody is talking about the SAME KIND of hub puller

There's two kinds of pullers I know of: The one below is what I use









[close window]


And then there is this kind


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## The Dangling Wrangler

I'm gonna say, the first one, is what I call a blower/fan blade puller. The others, I'd call automotive type pullers.


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## nicktech

:blink:i like to use co2, not the soda type, but the dry type, ya know for welding. i just blast it and it slips right off!:w00t::tt2:


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## hvaclover

I'm gonna say, the first one, is what I call a blower/fan blade puller. The others, I'd call automotive type pullers. 






Yeah me too.


here's one I absolutely







hate


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## hvaclover

nicktech said:


> :blink:i like to use co2, not the soda type, but the dry type, ya know for welding. i just blast it and it slips right off!:w00t::tt2:


In this case liquid nitrogen would suffice, all you have to do is spray the wheel generously and smack it with a hammer.
Breaks right off.:thumbsup:


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## The Dangling Wrangler

hvaclover said:


> I'm gonna say, the first one, is what I call a blower/fan blade puller. The others, I'd call automotive type pullers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah me too.
> 
> 
> here's one I absolutely
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hate


 



Well, you ain't alone on that one.


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## mechanicalDvr

I carry the ultimate puller like drac has in his post for little resi 1/2" fractional motors. Somehow I knew that is what he was inquiring about. If there is a groove in the hub I will use a split type bearing puller.


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## hvaclover

mechanicalDvr said:


> I carry the ultimate puller like drac has in his post for little resi 1/2" fractional motors. Somehow I knew that is what he was inquiring about. If there is a groove in the hub I will use a split type bearing puller.


If you are implying I haven't done commercial you would be wrong. My company had the first Taco Bell contract 30 years ago. I just prefer residential but I'll go up against anybody who wants to compete skill for skill.


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## scooter

If I am close to home I have used an air hammer and just held the hub with my hand. 
A snap-on 3700 bpm makes quick work when a hub puller wont work and no damage. 
Does any one use a nitrogen tank or other to run air tools? and how long could you run a 4-6 cfm tool on a tank? at 90 - 100 psi?
Scooter


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## mechanicalDvr

scooter said:


> If I am close to home I have used an air hammer and just held the hub with my hand.
> A snap-on 3700 bpm makes quick work when a hub puller wont work and no damage.
> Does any one use a nitrogen tank or other to run air tools? and how long could you run a 4-6 cfm tool on a tank? at 90 - 100 psi?
> Scooter


 
Having used them underwater most often I have run pneumatic tools off nitrogen, argon, and breathing air many times. I have heard they run better off dry Co2 if you can find it.


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## evapman

Well most of the time a ultimate puller, and some times a little heat with a map gas fire wrench. brass drift punch is something I will be buying,(good idea). have also cut shaft off flush with hub and drove out backwards.
hate those 3 finger pullers too unless removing a pulley. :thumbsup:


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## RoBoTeq

Having had my butt kicked and too many fan pullers bent and way too much sweat equity removing blowers and fans from motors, I started working smarter.

For 90% of the motors out there, saturate the shaft with a penetrint oil where it goes through the fan hub, go smoke a cigarette, drink a coffee, give the good looking HO a quickie....whatever to let the oil do it's job. 

Now, with what ever you need to do the job, put a wrench on the shaft between the fan and the motor to hold it tight. While holding the shaft, rock the fan back and forth on the shaft while putting pressure toward the end of the shaft. You'll be surprised how little effort is needed to gradually get that fan off of that shaft as long as you have not in any way distorted the shaft by hammering on it or putting gripping tools on the part of the shaft that the fan must slide over to pull off.

If the motor shaft is severely pitted, cut off the end of the shaft close to the fan hub and do the above.


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## The Dangling Wrangler

Worst case sceneario, go buy a new one.


Robo, Im gonna pm ya.


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## mjswan

Listen guys who has time for all of this.........just add a new shaft , blower wheel and pully and cut it all out; are you making money or killing time lol.......


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## hvaclover

mjswan said:


> Listen guys who has time for all of this.........just add a new shaft , blower wheel and pully and cut it all out; are you making money or killing time lol.......


Yeah, but we are talking a residential blower. No can do as you suggest let alone change pats that are stil good, i.e. the motor and wheel


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## gene2

In 30 years, the essential part is to sand the shaft as close to the hub as possible as good as you can all the way to the end -time well spent, then slick it up. I use a new piece of sanding cloth so that it will get right next to the hub, to bright metal. Short changing the sanding part leads to trouble too often, especially when an attempt to pull is made, it is then a battle because the rust is wedged in the hub. Then heat is needed to burn out the rust if you're lucky. This method has worked every time fully applied, even on 40+ year old units. The only times it hasn't worked are when the sanding part is short changed or slickem isn't used. I also slick the new shaft to make it easy for the next change, usually by me.

New techs shortchange the process & get away with it untill that inevitable tough job. That's when I usually get called because it won't come off - we need a new blade. They rapidly become true believers in 98 deg. heat or 40mph wind @ 0 deg. when re-demonstrated.

It never takes more than 5 minutes this way using puller #1.


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## hvaclover

Ok, now I am talking strictly residential here, but in 33 years I have never failed to pull wheels off the rustiest of shafts using WD40 and my hub puller.

Back before we had pullers like we use today (there were finger type pullers but would not work on a resi blower wheel) every body I know would squirt penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench on the shaft and let it sit for half an hour.

Then a 1" diameter brass punch to beat the shaft flush and then a smaller one to push the shaft free.

I never had to sand once,


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## beenthere

On a residential unit. With a little sanding, an and Ultimate puller. If you can't get the blower wheel off. Somebody welded it on. :laughing:


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## hvaclover

beenthere said:


> On a residential unit. With a little sanding, an and Ultimate puller. If you can't get the blower wheel off. Somebody welded it on. :laughing:



That's what I am saying.

To listen to some of the descriptions you read here you'd think a guy was removing a three inch shaft.


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## thehvacguy

The Dangling Wrangler said:


> When I get one that's real bad, I make the helper do it. He's responsible for everything then. :shifty:


Thats messed up man, but I have to show my appreciation. Its guys like you that pushed me to become a technician. lol. 

Usually I sand the shaft and oil it and then use the puller tool. Check out utube.com There is a video by van west comfort that shows you how to do it.


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## hvaclover

thehvacguy said:


> Thats messed up man, but I have to show my appreciation. Its guys like you that pushed me to become a technician. lol.
> 
> Usually I sand the shaft and oil it and then use the puller tool. Check out utube.com There is a video by van west comfort that shows you how to do it.



Like I said earlier I carry a tube of Vaseline in my tool bag.

So I would lube the shaft with Vaseline.


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## RoBoTeq

hvaclover said:


> Like I said earlier I carry a tube of Vaseline in my tool bag.
> 
> So I would lube the shaft with Vaseline.


This really does not sound right:no:

You cut the end of the shaft off and lube the stub. That is if we are still discussing removing a rusty motor from a blower wheel.:001_unsure:


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## milk man

1. Beat on the shaft with a framing hammer.

2. Call it a POS and blame the stupid manufacture.

3. Cuss under your breath if the HO is there, or go crazy with the F bomb if you're alone.

4. Call the HO and state that she needs a complete blower assembly.

5. Count the money all the way to the bank. 

:yes::laughing:

Sand and oil first.

Spin the wheel on the shaft before trying to pull second.

If no go, get the puller out. Work almost every time. If not, cut the shaft net to the hub and grind flush. Use a punch and hope for the best.


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## hvaclover

RoBoTeq said:


> This really does not sound right:no:
> 
> You cut the end of the shaft off and lube the stub. That is if we are still discussing removing a rusty motor from a blower wheel.:001_unsure:


Dude, the inference is just nasty:sad: glad you think like me.

Lube and puller is what I I meant. I don't cut shafts if I have a puller.


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## milk man

I also work over a bucket. Let the motor fall out and the assembly is up a little off the floor for better working conditions.


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## william blackmon

Soak with Kroil Oil and use Fan Blade Puller (the ultimate puller is my pref.) otherwise cut shaft and pull


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## hvaclover

milk man said:


> I also work over a bucket. Let the motor fall out and the assembly is up a little off the floor for better working conditions.


DUDE:sad:!

I hope it's not the same bucket you carry your MILK in:001_tongue::laughing:


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## milk man

Not that one. You don't want to know what I carry in that one:laughing:


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## JJDH

william blackmon said:


> Soak with Kroil Oil and use Fan Blade Puller (the ultimate puller is my pref.) otherwise cut shaft and pull


 agreed


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## skidrowpete

*stuck blower wheel*

i keep a 41/2 inch grinder on my truck you can get discs from an 11/2 inches to 41/2 usually have room to get to the hub with smaller disc cut slot to shaft and it might fall off


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## hvacrtech

*here ya got heres how u get the bugger off...*

so u want to get it off...

now heres what i do residential blower...belt driven easy...staft scored or mark, still need...may still be useble. first clean everything u can on the shaft. sandcloth.remove grease if packing failed. sand tills she clean, then if u have play on ur bearing get behide the pulley and clean back there too...IMPORTANT...remove all set screws and push pulley towards cleaned area..oil may need to be used. not wd40...then clean spot pulley sat on..oil up with a #20 oil just nice coating in holes and round the shaft. now if u have damage the end..or its been damage cause it blew apart. u need a file it cant have any man eatters.or ur going to have to use a puller. clean it all up give a nice good pull. should get her then remove bearing..push cage...clean then pull shaft. put back together oil up center cage and end of shaft push threw insure pulley is lined up..correctly with main drive pulley ..now heres a couple pullers i have...when she a monday..or a friday 4:30....and the beers cold.

i have a 3inch 3 prong puller, 5inch with 4 prong. i also have a couple special ones for direct drive shafts so i can pull the cages so not to get off center or unbalanced 

direct drive motor removal replace bad bearings lets say...oem or replacement...we can go more in dept..if u need or indrustal. with keys and locks.

sorry forgot u may run into lock collars they lock clock wise and need to be set in place to loosen well u no...


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## plummen

Oil it up and spin the shaft around with a small cresent wrench while holding blower to make sure its loose.prop up bottem of housing and use my beloved 1/4" nut driver against end of shaft to protect it while knocking it out with my favorite bfh! :laughing:


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## hvaclover

this is the most simplistic ,much to do about nothing thread, I think i have ever seen


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## The Dangling Wrangler

This is rocket science


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## plummen

no heres my rocket science project! :laughing:


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## KAIRAK24

remove set screws, wd-40, sand the shaft, and use pullers


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## hvaclover

KAIRAK24 said:


> remove set screws, wd-40, sand the shaft, and use pullers



Ya think?


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## John Markl

milk man said:


> I also work over a bucket. Let the motor fall out and the assembly is up a little off the floor for better working conditions.


I use a milk crate. After oiling and sanding, set the blower housing on the crate, with the motor and legs free. Tap the shaft with a hammer and an old swaging tool that hasn't been used since school days.

Just make sure the wheel is reasonably centered in the housing.

If that doesn't do it, customer gets a new wheel to go with their motor.


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## milk man

John Markl said:


> I use a milk crate. After oiling and sanding, set the blower housing on the crate, with the motor and legs free. Tap the shaft with a hammer and an old swaging tool that hasn't been used since school days.
> 
> Just make sure the wheel is reasonably centered in the housing.
> 
> If that doesn't do it, customer gets a new wheel to go with their motor.


Hello John


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## John Markl

milk man said:


> Hello John


Fancy meeting you here :thumbsup:


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## The Dangling Wrangler

Looks like they'll let anybody in this joint.


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## richiemoe

The best thing to do is pound the wheel down then sand with cloth. You need to use a lubricant such as http://www.pbblaster.com/PB_Blaster.htmlthen use a puller. Do not hit the shaft with a hammer or you will never get it removed. When everybody says just get a new wheel that still doesn't solve the problem of removing the old one in the first place.


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## RoBoTeq

The Dangling Wrangler said:


> Looks like they'll let anybody in this joint.


 All ya gotta do is mention pounding the shaft, eh?


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## hvaclover

This thread is turning into one of .....


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## RoBoTeq

And yet it is the only new post listed. This site needs some professional help. I am a professional:yes:


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## John Markl

RoBoTeq said:


> All ya gotta do is mention pounding the shaft, eh?


Better than pounding sand.....:blink:


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## hvaclover

RoBoTeq said:


> And yet it is the only new post listed. This site needs some professional help. I am a professional:yes:


Yeah, we need to draw some attention...I KNOW!



HEY ROBIN! YOU SUCK COMPRESSOR SLUDGE. WHATTA 'YA GOT TO SAY FER YER SELF 'YA WUSS?:laughing::thumbsup:


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## beenthere

hvaclover said:


> HEY ROBIN! YOU SUCK COMPRESSOR SLUDGE. WHATTA 'YA GOT TO SAY FER YER SELF 'YA WUSS?:laughing::thumbsup:



He only does that if it contains Blue Agave. :thumbsup:


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## RoBoTeq

Compressor sludge, with a little salt and pepper, does make a nice side drink when sipping a good anejoy tequila.

To draw more attention, someone needs to be accused of drinking urine from it's natural spout.....I'm just saying:001_tongue:


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## cool_air

*Heat it*

:blink:


The Dangling Wrangler said:


> Probably the same things you do.
> 
> Sand the shaft, oil 'er down, use a blower wheel puller.
> Worst case, buy a new one. I've tried using the torch. It ain't a pretty sight.


 :blink: I've had to use a torch to heat the hub and then put cool water on it to break it loose!!


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## nicktech

when will this post die!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## cool_air

nicktech said:


> when will this post die!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


:no: OK its dead!!!!!!!


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## RoBoTeq

Post resurrection doesn't quite sound right, but that's what this is.


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## hvaclover

If you want to stop this thread then unsubscribe,


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## beenthere

hvaclover said:


> If you want to stop this thread then unsubscribe,


That won't stop the thread.
That will only let you be oblivious to its continued activity.


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## service

blower wheel stuck? damn. best scenario is probably to go upstairs to the kitchen table and explain to them the benefits of the new BPI program, and get them to replace the whole system. ;-) * winky face*


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## The Dangling Wrangler

Wow, this thing has been going on since July 09.


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## hvaclover

The Dangling Wrangler said:


> Wow, this thing has been going on since July 09.


yeah. That is the longest drunk I have ever seen anyone stay on.


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## The Dangling Wrangler

hvaclover said:


> yeah. That is the longest drunk I have ever seen anyone stay on.


 
I'll see if I have a picture for this thread. Be right back.


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## The Dangling Wrangler

Show me that wheel. I'll take it off with my bear hands.


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## nicktech

Omg !


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## nicktech

i dont think this is about blower wheels any more


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## The Dangling Wrangler

I really don't have anything to work with here. Sorry. 

Hey, at least it's giving this board a little action. Right?


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## nicktech

i guess so, LOL


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## The Dangling Wrangler

This is the best I can do for this subject.


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## The Dangling Wrangler

*Forgot I had this, it's kinda a tool*


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## The Dangling Wrangler

I was tryin' to find the video of the original. 
Don't forget this thing is centuries old.


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## hvaclover

I'm Greek and none of my relatives use that damn thing.

Too damn heavy to wear on your wrist.

Thing is a fake.


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## The Dangling Wrangler

hvaclover said:


> I'm Greek and none of my relatives use that damn thing.
> 
> Too damn heavy to wear on your wrist.
> 
> Thing is a fake.


 
It's bling, ya wear it around your neck.


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## hvaclover

The Dangling Wrangler said:


> It's bling, ya wear it around your neck.


Do you think I am a Rapper or something?

I have a big ass 18krt gold crucifix I wear with a matching gold towing chain.


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## Jeffdurbin77

*New bearing removal tool*

Does anybody out there have a use for a new and simple to use tool for removing blower bearings. I have a new product specifically for this purpose and it works great. The product is currently in patent pending and will soon be available for sale. I have started the manufacturing process and will soon have a youtube video to demonstrate how it works. I can change out most bearings using this too in 10 minutes or less. It is a hand tool and not a complicated puller and will be able to be purchased for under $50.00. If I have your interest please respond and I will be adding a video within 30 days. I don't know about you guys but changing out bearings is not something that I do every day but it can be a pain in the butt and I am tired of using my cutting torch and other time consuming and dangerous methods to remove old bearings from rusty old shafts. Look forward to your responses.


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## Contractor Joe

DuMass said:


> I will normally try the A/T Rust Buster first for removing blower wheels and pulleys. It's a clear, slippery, water like liquid that apparently has been used in auto repair shops since the 1970's, but I only found out about it maybe ten years ago.
> I loosen the setscrews and give a few good squirts between the shaft and hub followed by a few light "love taps" to the hub collar with a with a drift punch and ball peen. This usually breaks them loose, but if not, I then completely remove the setscrews and flood the shaft and setscrew holes again and repeat.
> 
> If I still get attitude from the blower wheel,  I will use a small Uniweld Mapp hand torch that has fairly long reach tip to heat the shaft and hub for about 20-30-seconds, then shock the hub with spray from a bottle of glass cleaner that I always carry patio covers to clean off flux and grubby finger prints. This followed by another quick flood of the rust buster, which gives off a fluffy white cloud when heated, so don’t breath it… and a few more "love taps" will usually do the trick.
> 
> Only if all the above fails, is when the hub pullers come out. I have a couple of different sizes of those as well as wheel pullers, but these are rarely necessary.
> 
> BTW: "Rust Buster" is the clear liquid from Atwater Supply [A/T], not the brown stuff similarly named "Rust Breaker".
> Judging from the odor, I think the brown rust breaker is just repackaged CRC. I've used it and it works, but nowhere near as well as the clear rust buster does on blower wheels or pulleys.


There are really good product from HD and Lowes that is good for cleaning this stuff up... it's usually in their aersol aisles...


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## heatingrepairchicago

you have to use a fan puller. if you dont have one make sure you oil up where the pole locks with the wheel then use a screw driver and hammer... if you cant get it out you have to replace the wheel along with the motor.


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## heatingrepairchicago

get a fan puller or just replace the blower wheel they are usually pretty cheap.


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## hvacserviceseverett

Just had a similar situation a few months ago. Wish I would've seen this post before. I love using forums to help troubleshoot from hearing other guys passed experiences. I didnt notice you say anything about a fault code or anything. Have you checked that out to see if it can be a simple fix like mine ended up being after 30 minutes of feeling defeated and stumped?

HVACServices


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