# Tips, Tricks, Advice.



## uaplumber

This would be a good thread to post your experience driven tips for those members who are just starting or are still learning after 40 years.

I will start, always follow the power when troubleshooting. It helps keep to the KISS principal.


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## hvaclover

here's one I like: Instead of just putting your Schrader caps to the side screw them on to your hose holder on the back of your manifold.


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## beenthere

When installing or converting an evap coil to a TXV. If you have to make a hole for the external equalizer on the vapor manifold, or vapor line.

Use a sheet metal screw, no drillings to fall into the copper.


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## hvaclover

C'mon! There has got to be some shavings, no?


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## beenthere

Not if you use These self piercing.

Not self tapping.


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## Yuri

Use alligator clips or jumper cables on the ends of your multitester probes when doing continuity tests on low voltage wiring. Your body conducts electricity and holding the wire and probes at the same time can give you false readings and is annoying. Especially when the wiring is above your head.


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## hvaclover

When trying to find a short that blew a transformer, connect a 3 or 5 amp mini breaker in series with R of the transformer (secondary side of course).

Pops the breaker instead of board fuse or transformer


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## Yuri

A 3 or 5 amp GM blade fuse works real well. Use 1/4" stakons on your wire and slides onto the blade fuse real nice. Leave it there for the next guy if necessary. Saved my butt a few times.


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## Yuri

The grease from McD's big Maks makes excellent hand cleaner. Used to clean the oil and soot off my hands real quick when I did oil burners and then ate there. Imagine what it does to your guts.


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## beenthere

If your trying to put a 1/4 or 5/16" hex screw back in and it keeps falling oout. And you don't have magnetic nut drives. A small piece of paper from your tablet will help edge the screw in your nut driver.


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## hvaclover

beenthere said:


> If your trying to put a 1/4 or 5/16" hex screw back in and it keeps falling oout. And you don't have magnetic nut drives. A small piece of paper from your tablet will help edge the screw in your nut driver.


just reminded of something else. Small piece of cork tape on your dead magnetic bit works great too.


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## RoBoTeq

Outdoor unit pads should always be flat side facing up:laughing:.

More seriously, to do a great leveling of a a pad, level it up with any kind of rocks just to get it where it is level, then shoot expanding foam under the pad, around the rocks.

The foam will fill in voids that over time sag the pad and it locks everything under the pad and the pad together for a sturdy finish.

At the end of the day, take a long insulation knife and trim away the exces foam that oozed out and hardenened.


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## RoBoTeq

When trouble shooting controls issues, remove all of the thermostat wires from the indoor air handling unit and control each function you are testing independently with jumpers or a HandiStat type of control tool.

This will keep from having feed back situations taking you in the wrong direction and let you know whether the problem is from the unit not doing what it is being told to do or if the stat and wires telling the system what to do are at fault.


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## RoBoTeq

When things just don't look right, consider first that your test tools may be faulty and secondly that you may be doing something wrong. Then, and only then, consider that the equipment or the controls are at fault.


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## RoBoTeq

Before ever calling for techical help or for a part, document the model and serial numbers of all of the indoor and outdoor system parts. The few minutes it takes to gather all of the proper system information can save you and someone else a lot of time and aggravation, not to mention guess work.


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## evapman

use ball valves on ends of refrigerant gauge hoses(high side mostly) saves some burnt finger tips. :thumbsup:


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## Yuri

Wear leather gloves when disconnecting hoses. Had a schraeder valve not seat once and liquid freon sprayed on my hand. NOT fun!!


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## mechanicalDvr

Yuri said:


> A 3 or 5 amp GM blade fuse works real well. Use 1/4" stakons on your wire and slides onto the blade fuse real nice. Leave it there for the next guy if necessary. Saved my butt a few times.


A fuse instead of a breaker for troubleshooting seems to defeat the whole purpose of the last post.


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## Yuri

Mini breakers are rare, a blown fuse is better than a blown transformer. Unfortunately some York units and others had no fuse on their circuit boards and the first short blows the transformer. Leaving a fuse inline prevents headaches and callouts at night and a hostile customer.


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## mechanicalDvr

Yuri said:


> Mini breakers are rare, a blown fuse is better than a blown transformer. Unfortunately some York units and others had no fuse on their circuit boards and the first short blows the transformer. Leaving a fuse inline prevents headaches and callouts at night and a hostile customer.


 
Most York made RTUs have mini breakers in them that can be pulled out and saved when you are replacing a unit. Other than that Johnstone has them on special all the time for @$10, the point of the breaker is not to blow a fuse when your troubleshooting. I agree that if there isn't a fuse on the control voltage adding one is a step in the right direction.


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## Yuri

Had one blow a transformer for a simple short at night. As much as I love night calls (ya right) I would have appreciated a simple 50 cent fuse and stayed home.


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## RoBoTeq

The blown low voltage fuses reminds me of the one thing that helps most of all when tracking down a nuisance short or break in controls. Remove all t-stat wiring from the thermostat at the indoor unit (or blower section of package unit). 

By doing this and testing the circuits by manually jumpering each function individually, you first determine whether the problem is in the equipment or the t-stat/wiring to t-stat.

A HandiStat or other sort of switched jumper device also makes this job a bit easier. When chasing control ghosts, it is at least nice to have a direction in which to look rather then guessing throughout the entire control system.


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## mechanicalDvr

Yuri said:


> Had one blow a transformer for a simple short at night. As much as I love night calls (ya right) I would have appreciated a simple 50 cent fuse and stayed home.


 
If you got a night call for no heat from a customer, how would a fuse have saved you from going out to the call? If the unit is down, it's down.


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## RoBoTeq

A magnahelic gauge or low value negative pressure manometer connected between the induced draft blower and the pressure switch on any furnace can tell you a lot about chimney and vent piping condition.

I have seen more good gas valves and burners condemned due to cold chimneys and more pressure switches and induced draft blower condemned because of partially blocked of condensate laden pvc venting then I care to think about. Knowing exactly what is happening to the vent pressure can put a technician looking in the right direction instead of just making WAG's.


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## mechanicalDvr

RoBoTeq said:


> A magnahelic gauge or low value negative pressure manometer connected between the induced draft blower and the pressure switch on any furnace can tell you a lot about chimney and vent piping condition.
> 
> I have seen more good gas valves and burners condemned due to cold chimneys and more pressure switches and induced draft blower condemned because of partially blocked of condensate laden pvc venting then I care to think about. Knowing exactly what is happening to the vent pressure can put a technician looking in the right direction instead of just making WAG's.


 
I find there are three types of mechanics out there, guessers, parts swappers, and the occasional actual troubleshooter. I think some companies like the parts changers best, they bring in a part(s) sale on every job, sometimes even when just the emergency switch is turned off.


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## RoBoTeq

mechanicalDvr said:


> I find there are three types of mechanics out there, guessers, parts swappers, and the occasional actual troubleshooter. I think some companies like the parts changers best, they bring in a part(s) sale on every job, sometimes even when just the emergency switch is turned off.


I have nothing against parts changers as long as they change the right parts for the right reasons.

It does not bode well with customers when techs keep swapping out parts and the system still does not operate. I'm not much for cleaning up parts that have failed. Most times it is best to just replace a part that has ever had a problem.


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## mechanicalDvr

RoBoTeq said:


> I have nothing against parts changers as long as they change the right parts for the right reasons.
> 
> It does not bode well with customers when techs keep swapping out parts and the system still does not operate. I'm not much for cleaning up parts that have failed. Most times it is best to just replace a part that has ever had a problem.


I used to read posts on a couple of the other sites in the hvac areas and found it frustrating how many guys seem to make 4+ trips to fix a simple problem. I subscribe to the Keep It Simple Stupid theory. If the emergency switch is off when you get there, bill for the time and walk away, no need to replace the switch because "the internal spring is going bad", that I have heard several times.


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## RoBoTeq

mechanicalDvr said:


> I used to read posts on a couple of the other sites in the hvac areas and found it frustrating how many guys seem to make 4+ trips to fix a simple problem. I subscribe to the Keep It Simple Stupid theory. If the emergency switch is off when you get there, bill for the time and walk away, no need to replace the switch because "the internal spring is going bad", that I have heard several times.


I don't agree. I always teach to look for what caused the problem and not just replace the obvious problem.

Most times in HVAC, when a part fails it is because something else is wrong that caused that part to fail. We should always try to find the reason for the failed part and not just accept that the part just went bad.


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## mechanicalDvr

RoBoTeq said:


> I don't agree. I always teach to look for what caused the problem and not just replace the obvious problem.
> 
> Most times in HVAC, when a part fails it is because something else is wrong that caused that part to fail. We should always try to find the reason for the failed part and not just accept that the part just went bad.


 
You obviously completely misunderstood my post, I was refering to guys that just change out parts while they play the guessing game or feel they have to always sell a part, rather than apply good troubleshooting. If you find an emergency switch turned off and no one in the house knows why it was off, I figure it was done by accident and leave it at that.


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## RoBoTeq

mechanicalDvr said:


> You obviously completely misunderstood my post, I was refering to guys that just change out parts while they play the guessing game or feel they have to always sell a part, rather than apply good troubleshooting. If you find an emergency switch turned off and no one in the house knows why it was off, I figure it was done by accident and leave it at that.


You are correct, I did misunderstand.

And, I agree with you.


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## hvactech

It's simply amazing how many so called service techs are out there that dont have a clue as to why a part failed. And if you ask them what they think caused the failure, be ready to laugh at the answers you get!:laughing:

"normal wear and tear" is widely accepted but not hardly ever the real reason. Ask them what the amp draw was on the motors or other parts and they go DUH!:blink:


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## hvaclover

What 'da frag. A repair is a repair.


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## mechanicalDvr

hvaclover said:


> What 'da frag. A repair is a repair.


 
Not if it takes 5 trips to maybe complete.


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## RoBoTeq

On a repair, we should be attempting to obtain the most billable hours while taking the least amount of time away from the consumer.

What this means is that if there is a suspect failed part that you may be able to clean up to get working, it is usually better to replace that part instead. 

Why?

If you clean up the part and your fix does not stay a fix, you either lose billable hours by not charging for the call back or you take up more of the consumers time and money then if you had replaced the suspect part in the first place. 

By replacing a part that has been under abusive conditions, you get to sell a part (if under warranty and not your install, charge a warranty processing fee) and you keep your billable hour to non-billable hour ratio at a better margin while costing the consumer less of their time.


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## hvaclover

mechanicalDvr said:


> Not if it takes 5 trips to maybe complete.


you don't believe in max billable hours?


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## RoBoTeq

hvaclover said:


> you don't believe in max billable hours?


But call backs are not billable and if you don't consider every time back a call back, you might not get recommended by the person you just charged $53,297.23 for essentially changing out a bad capacitor.


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## hvaclover

RoBoTeq said:


> But call backs are not billable and if you don't consider every time back a call back, you might not get recommended by the person you just charged $53,297.23 for essentially changing out a bad capacitor.



Damn, you work that cheap? What a whore:laughing:


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## henny

Before you hook up your manifold and vacuum pump hoses to the service valves use a male/male connector to hook up the hose to each other and turn on the pump. You'll get to <500 microns in seconds and this will prove that your setup is OK.

How many times have we failed to get a deep vacuum because of a bad setup vs. leaky system?


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## RoBoTeq

hvaclover said:


> Damn, you work that cheap? What a whore:laughing:


Well, that's Canadian dollars:whistling2:,mr. hva:clover:


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## RoBoTeq

henny said:


> Before you hook up your manifold and vacuum pump hoses to the service valves use a male/male connector to hook up the hose to each other and turn on the pump. You'll get to <500 microns in seconds and this will prove that your setup is OK.
> 
> How many times have we failed to get a deep vacuum because of a bad setup vs. leaky system?


male/male sucking? :001_unsure: :cowboy::sailor::clap::red_indian:


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## hvactech

RoBoTeq said:


> On a repair, we should be attempting to obtain the most billable hours while taking the least amount of time away from the consumer.
> 
> What this means is that if there is a suspect failed part that you may be able to clean up to get working, it is usually better to replace that part instead.
> 
> Why?
> 
> If you clean up the part and your fix does not stay a fix, you either lose billable hours by not charging for the call back or you take up more of the consumers time and money then if you had replaced the suspect part in the first place.
> 
> By replacing a part that has been under abusive conditions, you get to sell a part (if under warranty and not your install, charge a warranty processing fee) and you keep your billable hour to non-billable hour ratio at a better margin while costing the consumer less of their time.


 Sure you sell a part. but if its in an abusive envirionment and you just replace the part without offering to the customer an option to improve the conditions that the part is in and it fails again prematurely be it 2 months or 2 years you still dont get much respect from the customer. and without that you get no word of mouth advertising which ive found is one of the best ads you can get for your $!!:yes: So all Im saying is look at the cause of the failure and at least offer a more permenent solution to the problem at hand.


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## RoBoTeq

hvactech said:


> Sure you sell a part. but if its in an abusive envirionment and you just replace the part without offering to the customer an option to improve the conditions that the part is in and it fails again prematurely be it 2 months or 2 years you still dont get much respect from the customer. and without that you get no word of mouth advertising which ive found is one of the best ads you can get for your $!!:yes: So all Im saying is look at the cause of the failure and at least offer a more permenent solution to the problem at hand.


I have already stated to replace the part and then look for why the part failed. This would create more "billable" hours, which is good.


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## Heat Geek

RoBoTeq said:


> Before ever calling for techical help or for a part, document the model and serial numbers of all of the indoor and outdoor system parts. The few minutes it takes to gather all of the proper system information can save you and someone else a lot of time and aggravation, not to mention guess work.


and If it's Robo you happen to be calling, come bearing gifts. Food usually works best 

Hey Robo, I didn't know you did tricks :laughing:


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## RoBoTeq

Heat Geek said:


> and If it's Robo you happen to be calling, come bearing gifts. Food usually works best
> 
> Hey Robo, I didn't know you did tricks :laughing:


I'm not on the tech side of the job nowadays. I actually have to bring gifts to the contractors I deal with. I must admit, that is painful at times:001_unsure:


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## mechanicalDvr

RoBoTeq said:


> But call backs are not billable and if you don't consider every time back a call back, you might not get recommended by the person you just charged $53,297.23 for essentially changing out a bad capacitor.


 
Exactly.


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## Heat Geek

RoBoTeq said:


> I'm not on the tech side of the job nowadays. I actually have to bring gifts to the contractors I deal with. I must admit, that is painful at times:001_unsure:


Oh Really? :blink:

I hope you don't sell... goo.. goo... goo..

aww, nevermind LOL 

(this aughta be good for you looking at my profile)


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## RoBoTeq

Heat Geek said:


> Oh Really? :blink:
> 
> I hope you don't sell... goo.. goo... goo..
> 
> aww, nevermind LOL
> 
> (this aughta be good for you looking at my profile)


Nope, no goo...goo...gooo...

I sell Amana, Distinctions, EverRest, EnergiAir, Luxaire, ClimateMaster, Bard, Columbia, Apricus, Acadia, Laars, Peerless, Columbia, Honeywell and so on and on and scooby doooby dooo...


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## henny

RoBoTeq said:


> male/male sucking? :001_unsure: :cowboy::sailor::clap::red_indian:


No, it's 2 females screwing then sucking males.


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## RoBoTeq

henny said:


> No, it's 2 females screwing then sucking males.


OHHHHH! I do like your way of thinking:thumbup: have a :drink:


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## mechanicalDvr

henny said:


> No, it's 2 females screwing then sucking males.


 
Sounds so much better that way.


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## RoBoTeq

mechanicalDvr said:


> Sounds so much better that way.


It sure does. Must be all of the pro-**** attitudes in the news recently that had me thinking the way I did.


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## gene2

Yuri said:


> Use alligator clips or jumper cables on the ends of your multitester probes when doing continuity tests on low voltage wiring. Your body conducts electricity and holding the wire and probes at the same time can give you false readings and is annoying. Especially when the wiring is above your head.


I do that with line voltage too, especially in damp conditions. I had an instance where 480 was being fed to a 120 line, blew out the meter fuse and melted the side of the meter case, also had an unknown nick in the lead.


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## hvaclover

When you unscrew a panel instead of laying the screws on the ground put them back in the holes they came out of. You won't lose them that way.


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## gene2

hvaclover said:


> When you unscrew a panel instead of laying the screws on the ground put them back in the holes they came out of. You won't lose them that way.


Very good advice


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## hvaclover

gene2 said:


> Very good advice



But 'ya gotta coat them with CO2 first!:blink:


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## gene2

That's good HVAClover!

No foul intended on the other post.


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## hvaclover

call me clover..cool


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## DuMass

hvaclover said:


> When trying to find a short that blew a transformer, connect a 3 or 5 amp mini breaker in series with R of the transformer (secondary side of course).
> 
> Pops the breaker instead of board fuse or transformer


That’s what I use. I think the one I have is called the Lil’ Popper.


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## hvaclover

DuMass said:


> That’s what I use. I think the one I have is called the Lil’ Popper.


i got a mini breaker from Carrier.


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## mechanicalDvr

hvaclover said:


> i got a mini breaker from Carrier.


 
Such an easy part to pull out of an RTU when your doing a change out there isn't a need to even buy one. You can build up a variety from a few different brands. I like the ones from York about the best.


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## RoBoTeq

mechanicalDvr said:


> Such an easy part to pull out of an RTU when your doing a change out there isn't a need to even buy one. You can build up a variety from a few different brands. I like the ones from York about the best.


My favorites are the 3amp ones out of old Trane air handlers.


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## mechanicalDvr

RoBoTeq said:


> My favorites are the 3amp ones out of old Trane air handlers.


Yorks have 3amp and 5amp for the most part.


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## pipefitter636

hvaclover said:


> i got a mini breaker from Carrier.


Did you notice that Bill is back behind the counter...... Still miss Smitty, he was one of the best:yes:


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## hvaclover

pipefitter636 said:


> Did you notice that Bill is back behind the counter...... Still miss Smitty, he was one of the best:yes:


Smitty was a good friend, Pipefitter. Knew him when he first got into the business working for George L. Johnston.


I got MechanicalDvr on ignore. Tell him "HI" for me will'ya:laughing::thumbsup:


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## snapdaddy

I use a magnet to hold my screws as not to lose them when im taking off panels and doors. Also the magnet works well when trouble shooting a gas furnace with a door switch ,the magnet will hold in the switch while you are tracing the wiring.


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## mechanicalDvr

snapdaddy said:


> I use a magnet to hold my screws as not to lose them when im taking off panels and doors. Also the magnet works well when trouble shooting a gas furnace with a door switch ,the magnet will hold in the switch while you are tracing the wiring.


 
I've seen that little magnet tool they make for door switches but haven't felt I can't live without it yet. I use a magnetic bowl for screws, it's a $5
life saver at times.


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## RoBoTeq

I have a heavy duty magnet on a velcro wristband for holding screws.


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## hvaclover

RoBoTeq said:


> I have a heavy duty magnet on a velcro wristband for holding screws.



"fes up Robin, it was really a persuader. One Back hand and the reluctant wallet opens with out further encouragement.



I TOLD YOU C O FRIGGIN -D, BI-ATCH!


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## RDeazy

Admin needs to sift through the B.S. posts on this thread and make it a sticky, there is really some good stuff here, still in school, but anywhere I can get a leg up is great, that first post with the schrader valve caps - putting them on the back of the manifold gauges is just genius, common sense if you think about it, but man I never thought of doing that when we're in lab at school. lol


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## hvaclover

RDeazy said:


> Admin needs to sift through the B.S. posts on this thread and make it a sticky, there is really some good stuff here, still in school, but anywhere I can get a leg up is great, that first post with the schrader valve caps - putting them on the back of the manifold gauges is just genius, common sense if you think about it, but man I never thought of doing that when we're in lab at school. lol


 We're here to learn and have fun, There can be a very serious thread going and after a while some guys can't follow and that is a good time for a little levity.

There are mostly senior guys and contractors who post and you can feel free to ask any question and we will be glad to help as much as possible.
But don't think the guys won't crack smart when they get a chance,it breaks up the monotony. 

Good luck in school.


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## RoBoTeq

I'm always serious:no:

I can no longer wear my magnetic wrist band while saying the pledge. My wrist getst stuck to my chest!


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## GaryB

RoBoTeq said:


> I'm always serious:no:
> 
> I can no longer wear my magnetic wrist band while saying the pledge. My wrist getst stuck to my chest!


I wore one of them magnetic wrist bands once. 
Made a pass across my pacemaker in my chest with my arm and was in a coma for almost six months


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## RoBoTeq

GaryB said:


> I wore one of them magnetic wrist bands once.
> Made a pass across my pacemaker in my chest with my arm and was in a coma for almost six months


I wasn't really serious. I just happen to have 13 stents in my heart, but magnetism doesn't affect them (I don't think, anyway). Do strong magnets really mess up pacemakers?


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## GaryB

RoBoTeq said:


> I wasn't really serious. I just happen to have 13 stents in my heart, but magnetism doesn't affect them (I don't think, anyway). Do strong magnets really mess up pacemakers?


Sorry I was just having some fun LOL. Guess it could happen though


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## RoBoTeq

GaryB said:


> Sorry I was just having some fun LOL. Guess it could happen though


 With all of the things that do affect cardiac conditions, I am easy to dupe on the subject. Hell, my cardiolagist has even told me that tequila and steak chesapeake with escargot for an appetizer is bad for my heart! Go figure! I wish he had told me that before I had my second heart attack within hours of eating that mea.:yes:


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## findvoltage

wish more teachers like you were in my classroom.


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## daventx64

*learning*

*your never to old to learn something new*


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## Fandango

*Tip*

If it's hotter than Hell
bring along a newbe on your service call
and have him go up in the attic
while you comunicate with him via cell phone whilst sitting in the back yard in a soft lounge chair,sipping on a cold glass of lemonade!:no:


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## bowtech

Read the installation manuals before you get out there to install a piece of equipment that your not familiar with.They can be found on the interent for most all brands. They even come in spanish for some odd reason. :thumbsup:


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## Fancy Shoes

Could you explain the mini fuse for me please. thanks.

I have not found anything without a fuse unless it didnt have a board. Where do you wire in the fuse?

Also since I am asking questions, I might as well throw in one more so I dont have to start a new thread.

I was doing a RTU Saturday, it was a no heat situation on a restaurant, when their stove fans were on, there was not heat, when off they had little heat. I got on the roof, the panel that was where you access the filter had fallen off the unit becuase of no screws, as I was up there, I noticed they had 2 units, when I checked the breaker box, becuase one of the units had no power, I only saw one breaker for both RTU's, What would be protocol on this situation of one breaker for 2 RTUS? they didnt want to have a new line ran.


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## beenthere

Run the line to individual fused disconnects for each RTU.


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## hvaclover

beenthere said:


> Run the line to individual fused disconnects for each RTU.


You must still have the Christmas Spirit...Fancy Shoes is gonna kill himself cause he knows so little. Even the poorest students I saw as an HVAC instructors didn't even come close the lack of learning Fancy Shoes projects thru his questions.

You really think his posts belong here?


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## Fancy Shoes

hvaclover said:


> You must still have the Christmas Spirit...Fancy Shoes is gonna kill himself cause he knows so little. Even the poorest students I saw as an HVAC instructors didn't even come close the lack of learning Fancy Shoes projects thru his questions.
> 
> You really think his posts belong here?


I guess you would have hated being a instructor in my class, becuase I was actually the best person in my class. I had the highest GPA along with everyone asking me questions when instructor was busy. 

Just the fact alone of me joining a forum to read and see what other bits of knowledge I can pick up on here shows that I am just wanting to learn as much as possible. 

So just go ahead a put me down a bit more! I will kill my self because I asked a question about 2 RTUs sharing a breaker when I have never seen that before? I dont think so!


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## beenthere

hvaclover said:


> You must still have the Christmas Spirit...Fancy Shoes is gonna kill himself cause he knows so little. Even the poorest students I saw as an HVAC instructors didn't even come close the lack of learning Fancy Shoes projects thru his questions.
> 
> You really think his posts belong here?


Thats for the Mods of this forum to decide. 

I offer advise to aid him in his learning. I can't make him take the advise, but I can give it.


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## hvaclover

beenthere said:


> Thats for the Mods of this forum to decide.
> 
> I offer advise to aid him in his learning. I can't make him take the advise, but I can give it.


I am inferring the unsophisticated nature of his posts smack of someone who is not a pro. And I do believe this site is PROS ONLY, is it not?

You read his other posts?


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## beenthere

hvaclover said:


> I am inferring the unsophisticated nature of his posts smack of someone who is not a pro. And I do believe this site is PROS ONLY, is it not?
> 
> You read his other posts?


Read them. Sounds like young(could be changing trades in mid life) and little experience. Like may others I have seen posting over the years. Get out of trade school and get thrown to the wolves shortly after getting a job. They end up having no place but the forums to ask questions cause they don't get to ride with other more experienced techs.


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## RoBoTeq

Geez, clover, you're a little grumpy today...I thought I was supposed to be the grumpy one this time of year.

Let me guess; you didn't get what you "really" wanted for Christmas....did ya?


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## Fancy Shoes

This Hvaclover makes me feel so welcome. he send me a pm saying that I am most likely a DIY hack or a Handyman. when in fact I am neither, I am working in the field. I just like to have questions answered. to be honest I wish I new of classes in Indianapolis where I could learn more. however the fact that I have no cash to take more classes leaves me looking to books and online to learn more of the detailed things. I hate people who dont do things right. and When a company says you have 30 minutes to install a new unitl, 10 minutes to do a PM, while they are raking in 80 and hour, paying me 15 of that, I really dont get the correct approach to what I would like to know.


And since I have been asking questions in regards to the topic being discussed in the topic of each thread, I am withen the rules of the forum, I really dont like making new threads to post questions related to other topics.


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## beenthere

Fancy Shoes said:


> I hate people who dont do things right. and When a company says you have 30 minutes to install a new unitl, 10 minutes to do a PM, while they are raking in 80 and hour, paying me 15 of that, I really dont get the correct approach to what I would like to know.


LOL. Sorry for laughing. but your comment of raking in is some what humorous. once you get to the biz side, you learn why.


Often its better to start a new thread even if it is on the same subject.


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## Fancy Shoes

beenthere said:


> LOL. Sorry for laughing. but your comment of raking in is some what humorous. once you get to the biz side, you learn why.
> 
> 
> Often its better to start a new thread even if it is on the same subject.


Its alright, I understand that a company charges a hourly rate that mostly goes to insurance and equipment, taxes and more taxes and that not a lot is left. especially if they raise taxes to 40% for people over $400,000 a year like they want. 

Every other forum I have been a apart of, they hate when people start new threads on same topic as others.


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## beenthere

If the answer is already in another thread of same topic, yes.


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## hvaclover

RoBoTeq said:


> Geez, clover, you're a little grumpy today...I thought I was supposed to be the grumpy one this time of year.
> 
> Let me guess; you didn't get what you "really" wanted for Christmas....did ya?


Got what I wanted x2.:shifty:


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## OasisInd

Tip : You can find the third leg amps of a 3 phase motor by amping the other two legs at the same time. Useful for times that you can't find or get to that third leg.


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## heatingrepairchicago

when changing parts make sure the disconnect is off to the equipment you are servicing. I see this as a very common mistake with the new guys.. low voltage parts especially.


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## BrendaKelley

Don't forget to replace your filter once a week for maintaining your HVAC system longtime.


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## ABCalculus.com

a lot of good advices here


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